Sunday, April 20, 2008

South Swell and wind magic



<
Yesterday was all time County line magic with a 12 m synergy and a strapless thruster surfboard then the good old Xanadu 5'10" fish. A four hour bicycle ride in the local hills provided me a great view of the perfect but very crowded glassy sets rushing every south facining beach in Bu. The eddy broke down and the wind came up. I was first on the water and imdediately having an absolutely great time. Bowls to hit everywhere and rides from the point all the way down the south tower frequent. The one shreder surfer out was hooting and chearing me on. What a rare thing. Cool dude and we exchanged a few waves at the point and I pulled out a heaps so he could drop in. Vic and John hit it about forty minutes after my water entrance and Vic got a sic in and out barrel on his goofy foot stance with a hucking left. Three hours of absolute wave heaven and I came in. Kiters just kept coming and Ali went out as we left. He was getting some fun waves lit well on his synergy 12 and could have used his 10m. Somebody found and did not return his underground 141 firebird mutant that washed down to North Beach last week. Hopefully it will show up.

This morning was a fanstasic paragliding flight off of the 1300 foot launch of Deer Creek with great lift marked by loads of acrobatic hawks and a few crows. Real bullets going up and it was nice to see Vic's truck with a few other pilots pull up below me while coring a tight bullet thermal. He got on the radio and let me know it looked like I was really getting whacked around up there. It was so much fun with the unreal bright spring colors below and sparkling blue ocean to fly over today. Must have been up an hour and a half and landed as the gang was coming down and did not want to be an air hog. We had plenty of altitude to transistion just about anywhere to look for thermals but were very stoked with what we already got. After not flying for quite a few days, this was a real treat.

Driving up the coast to County Line from the flight, a bit of wind was evident though the swell had droped dramatically from yesterday. We checked Leo and wind was on with nobody out but the waves were minimal. I was able to sneak out with my 15 synergy and the lei gang sat on the beach or tried to get out and drifted back down wind and in at County Line. Some ok waves at the point but the inside got really light after a while and a down winder to Leo was in order as a bunch of kites looked powered down there by this time. Staircase was rockin and got a bunch of glassy waves there before spending an hour or so at Leo before heading back up the coast to see who was on a syunergy at County as the wind was smoking now. These kites FLY upwind. It took two tacks to get to County. Amazing!!! It was Gary from Ventura getting some good waves at Bombora and mid beach at County. He came in to tell me how much he was digging the kite and put a big grin on my mug to hear it. Bayless ran down to the beach at County to see why I came in and decided his Leo session was enough as well. The thin surf suit today did not quite keep me warm after three hours or so and the core temp was well down. Air and water temp was down. The tunes on the little swiman ipod shuffel once again added a great bit of pleasure to another great session. What a fantastic spring. I was going to head up to Santa Cruz to get some wind and waves but it has been so good here, the necesity has just not been there as of yet. Whales and porpoise around again today and it always feels like hanging with family when they are in the water around you. You just know those playful surf nut porpoises are saying "this guy is dropping in on us again??" Man, watch me zip past him again on this right."

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home